Selecting the right fabric is the first and most important step in designing your custom made suit.
We offer a range of different fabrics that vary based on thread count, composition and weight. We didn't want to over complicate things, so we just decided to offer all of our fabrics at the same price point.
Our online fabric offering is based on only the most popular fabrics we carry. If there is something in particular you seek or want to see our 1000's of other fabrics, please book a personal fitting or send us an email.
Thread count is based on a fibre’s diameter (measured in microns) and then translated in terms of 'super' or 'superfine' numbers to indicate the wool’s fineness. For example, a superfine 100's wool is 18.75 microns in diameter, whereas a superfine 160's wool is 15.25 microns. The science behind thread counts is complicated and gets further complicated as you get into types of weaves. The only thing you need to know is that there is a basic trade-off when it comes to thread counts; the higher the thread count - the finer your suit will look, but the more fragile your suit becomes. As such, we recommend that for your everyday business suit you choose something in the range of superfine 100's - 130's and something of a higher count for those fine dinner suits.
Shaw & Co. carries various thread counts ranging from Superfine 100's to Superfine 160's to ensure you are able to fit the fabric for the purpose.
The composition of your suit's fabric is one of the most important considerations you make in choosing your suit. Each type of material has different characteristics that should be matched with your intended use. Pure wool for instance is the most durable of the natural suiting fabrics and allows a good level of breathablility. It also is heat resistent to ensure that when you have your suit pressed, it does not come back looking shiny. Wool blends often include cashmere, to increase the softness and breathability of the fabric, but at the sacrifice of the durability and longevity of pure wool. Or synthetics like polyester, to improve durability and increase the shine of the fabric, yet at a cost of reduced breathability.
Nearly 90% of the fabrics we offer are pure wool as we believe a traditional wool suit is second to none. However, we also offer both cashmere and synthetic blends for those that are looking for something a little different.
The weight of the fabric is important because it ties directly to the intended season of the suit. Here in Canada, we have a vast array of climates and we need a suiting weight that offers versatility, or a lot of different weighted suits! Weight is measured by grams per yard of fabric. In the warmer months, look for something of a lighter weighting, we recommend less than 250g/yard. In the cooler months look for something heavier perhaps over the 300g/yard weighting.
We carry a variety of weights from 200g/yard to 350g/yard, but the majority of our suits woudl be considered "mid-year" suits with weightings between 250g/yard and 300g/yard. After all, you want something that will give you the versatility to wear no matter the weather, since you never know what you will wake up to outside in Canada.